Starting a cold winter injection engine.

Here's a bit of theory and one of the recommendations on this topic is very important to have a cold start is where the fuel is supplied during this very start. On older, carbureted models with low compression all happened quite simply, the air damper closes, the amount of air at the start to adjust the air valve, and the amount of fuel determined throttle when starting. Fuel from the carburetor at this point enters the inlet tube having a sufficient length. Fuel way as a film on the inner surface of the inlet tube so, too, was quite long and extended in time. Note first that metered amount of fuel in the form of a film on the walls of the intake manifold is much easier than in the vapor phase. The path from the nozzle to the combustion chamber to the engine vpryskovym several tens of times less than the carburettor version. Let me remind you that the injector sprays fuel directly on the plate that opens into the combustion chamber inlet valve. Enormous importance to the fact how much fuel enters the vapor phase at this point. It is completely determined by the volatility of fuel. Conditions for the ignition so strongly may vary due to differences in the fractional part, that are difficult to control and regulation. If the gasoline version is not too much because the fuel will crawl through an inlet pipe for a long time and eventually evaporates all the same, then all options vpryskovym much sadder: for not having had time to evaporate once - still burn can not. Our calibration is already done under the heavier fuel than envisaged European standard. We finishing work conducted on fuel with a vapor pressure of 400 kPa instead of European 800 ... 900 kPa. Their gasoline evaporate twice as good and mostly because of European cars in Europe much easier to start. The main thing - do not fill them in our heavy gasoline. (Which, incidentally, is also often dirty, and water). Now I know why the car is started with the central injection better distributed - it is longer and more in the area of ​​the site from the fuel injector to the cylinder. 2112 engine to run reliably at-30C to: Motor synthetic oil 0W40 - quite expensive. Battery at least 65Ach.

Winter fuel or the worst, but with stable parameters to calibrate the engine under it, that is. Candles did not 18DVRM A17 ... and preferably Bosch, Brisk, Champion with appropriate heat rating. From the 3rd paragraph the biggest problems. Gasoline in Russia at any brand. Winter - summer and at the same time do not like anything. The problem is complex and will stand as long as all the components of finishing work, especially gasoline and oil will not be the standard. Now be advised on what they brought. And, perhaps, it is better for the domestic consumer, because the problems start with-10C, and in the same French below +5 C is not seen.